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In recent years, the concept of "diversity" has become a frequent topic of discussion within the wine industry. However, this diversity does not merely refer to variations within traditional frameworks such as differences in terroir, grape varieties, or vintages. Rather, it should be understood as a structural transformation that fundamentally challenges the very definition of wine itself. The traditional wine laws that once defined the boundaries of wine are collapsing, and their effects are rippling through producers, consumers, and the entire wine industry.
The Dismantling of Traditional Frameworks and Emerging Trends
Traditionally, the boundaries of wine were strictly regulated by wine laws in established wine-producing countries. Clear regulations existed regarding permissible grape varieties, production methods, and quality standards. However, this framework has been significantly disrupted in recent years.
Several factors contribute to this phenomenon:
- Increased wine production in regions without established wine laws
- Growing numbers of producers who deliberately deviate from existing wine law frameworks
- The influence of "craft" movements, as seen in sake and other beverages
As a result, previously unknown wine styles such as orange wines and natural wines have emerged, while the proliferation of food pairing culture has further accelerated this diversification.
The Transformation of Quality Standards Through Pairing Culture
The widespread adoption of food pairing concepts has led sommeliers and other professionals to seek an extremely broad range of wines to complement diverse cuisines. A notable shift has occurred during this process.
Wines with volatile acidity and other characteristics traditionally considered "off-flavors" (defects) are increasingly deemed "acceptable" if they pair well with specific dishes. Taken to its logical extreme, this leads to the interpretation that "since the purpose of pairing is to enhance the dish, the wine need not strictly adhere to wine laws."
This trend has created situations where wines used in pairings at prestigious restaurants are recognized as "excellent wines" even when they deviate from traditional frameworks.
The Crisis of Wine Definition Ambiguity
The proliferation of an "anything goes" mentality poses the danger of completely dismantling the framework that defines wine. An anecdote that symbolizes this problem tells of a farmer who reveals to his son the "secret" that "wine can actually be made from grapes too." This joke satirizes situations where beverages made from ingredients other than grapes were being called "wine."
Similar phenomena persist today. Despite the fundamental rule that "wine is made from grapes," we still encounter cases where citrus wines and apple-based alcoholic beverages (cider) are labeled as "wine." In terms of quality, the increasing tolerance of off-flavors and volatile acidity risks triggering a gradual decline in quality standards and a destructive cycle.
This situation threatens to destroy the unity of the wine industry community, potentially leaving only "wine-like substances" and ultimately leading to the disappearance of the concept of wine itself. A divisive split has emerged between "conservatives" who adhere to traditional wine laws and those who embrace new interpretations, making constructive dialogue increasingly difficult.
The Dilemma Behind Diversification
The expansion of wine diversity has realistic foundations. The contexts in which wine is consumed and the range of cuisines it accompanies have dramatically broadened, creating demand for wines that complement curry and dishes from non-wine-producing countries. Producers are now expected to embrace "creative freedom," crafting wines with specific dishes in mind and incorporating new materials and technologies. Resistance to existing regulations has also grown among producers, particularly in response to climate change challenges.
However, this situation has raised concerns about producers who bypass fundamental winemaking techniques and immediately pursue creative approaches. Ironically, conscientious producers may become disillusioned with these developments and leave the industry.
A "bad money drives out good" phenomenon is also observable. Expensive natural wines with off-flavors are sometimes accepted as "authentic wine" over inexpensive, industrially produced wines that comply with wine laws—a complete reversal of traditional quality hierarchies. Concepts like "terroir" risk being misappropriated from their original meaning and used as convenient tools to mask wine defects.
A Concrete Example from Japan's Wine Industry
Japan's wine industry provides a more concrete illustration of this dilemma. The "candy aroma" and "foxy flavor" of Muscat Bailey A are clearly recognized as "off-flavors" by European and American standards. However, many Japanese consumers favor these characteristics, placing producers in a position where completely eliminating flavors preferred by their target market may not be the appropriate choice. Since unsold wine becomes industrial waste, producers must balance market needs with quality standards.
High-End Wine Pricing Mechanisms
Regarding the phenomenon of luxury wine prices inflating beyond quality levels, it has been pointed out that most cases involve price manipulation during distribution rather than price increases by wineries themselves. Consumers pay for the wine's "tradition," "brand," and "value as a luxury good," with prices determined by market principles of supply and demand.
The Consumer's Role and the Need for Constructive Criticism
Currently, the stipulation that "wine must be wine" exists only in wine laws. Consequently, many producers and consumers either lack awareness of wine laws or consciously ignore them.
As wine diversity progresses, it is crucial that consumers do not unconditionally accept everything under the banner of "diversity" but instead maintain a critical perspective when appropriate. "Constructive criticism" is particularly essential for producers' technical improvement and growth. Since winemakers may sometimes fail to recognize flaws in their own wines, consumers clearly stating that "undrinkable wines are undrinkable" and "problematic wines are problematic" contributes to the healthy development of the entire industry.
Conclusion
The current ambiguity in wine definition and the instability of quality standards present serious challenges for the wine industry. True diversity should develop while maintaining fundamental quality standards. A future where genuine, valuable diversity flourishes—rather than superficial diversity—may be realized when consumers consciously engage with wine and provide appropriate feedback.
Source: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l3zcrR39d8Q
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