|
Among wine enthusiasts, the belief that "good vineyards" produce quality wines is widely accepted. Wines from vineyards with classifications such as Grand Cru or Premier Cru are often perceived as "distinctly different." But where exactly does this "difference" come from? To answer this question, this article explores the background of vineyard classification systems and examines how producers intervene in wine quality.
The Surprising Origins of Classification
Current vineyard classification systems are adopted in many regions, led by Burgundy and including Germany's Grosse Lage and Erste Lage designations. However, their origins lie in unexpected places. In Germany's case, for example, classifications are based on "historical tax records." Simply put, vineyards that generated more tax revenue—those producing wines that sold for higher prices in larger quantities—were rated more highly. This reflected consumer preferences of the time, with possible influence from royal endorsements.
Limitations of Modern Classification
However, these old standards create problems that don't directly connect to modern wine evaluation. Climate change has had significant impact, with north-facing vineyards that once struggled to ripen grapes now becoming favorable in some cases. Additionally, soil types (such as limestone soils) do not serve as direct classification criteria, and vineyards with identical soil compositions may or may not receive classifications. Thus, vineyard-specific "terroir" does not directly correlate with classification.
There Are "Differences" but Not "Better or Worse"
So why do classified wines feel "different"? Producers need to create clear "distinctions" among wines at different price points on their wine lists. These "distinctions" are not necessarily about "good" versus "bad" quality, but simply about "differences." When consumers evaluate these differences as "good," the wine becomes recognized as a "good wine"—this is purely "consequential."
Producers' Meticulous Intervention and Resource Allocation
To create these "differences," producers employ various strategies. The underlying principle is allocating limited human and material resources based on priority.
Cultivation Method Changes and Intensive Care
Harvest timing, extraction methods, and extraction duration may vary by vineyard. Classified vineyards known to command higher prices receive priority allocation of human resources and intensive care. For example, operations such as grass cutting, pruning, leaf removal (haueo), and yield limitation (green harvest) are performed on higher-classified vineyards first.
When work is interrupted by bad weather or troubles, lower-classified vineyard operations are often postponed or left incomplete. Consequently, differences in care create clear distinctions in grape quality. This represents differences in effort and priority, not differences in vineyard location.
Harvest Operation Innovations
To maintain grape quality, harvesting during cooler periods (early harvest, midnight harvest, etc.) is considered ideal. However, since not all vineyards reach optimal ripeness simultaneously, priority becomes crucial here as well.
Higher-classified vineyards are prioritized for harvest during cool periods, while lower-classified vineyards may be harvested during hot daytime hours. This leads to quality deterioration from grape temperature increases (such as fermentation beginning during transport), creating differences in the final wine.
Thorough Management During Winemaking
Higher-classified wines are often fermented in small tanks (100 or 200 liters) separated by plot. This enables more careful processing (manual grape loading, minimal crushing, dry ice addition for oxidation prevention, etc.).
Even in operations like racking (oribi-ki), higher-classified wines receive careful attention with slow, time-intensive processes to prevent sediment inclusion. Conversely, lower-priced wines face time constraints requiring increased pump speeds, making sediment inclusion more likely and changing oxygen incorporation levels.
Notably, even vineyard-designated wines from higher classifications are often made by ultimately blending wines fermented from multiple small plots within the vineyard. This allows evaluation of each lot's quality and combining only the finest wines to create a single wine. Grapes deemed inferior during selection may be blended into lower-grade wines, sometimes making lower-grade wines taste better than usual.
The Interaction Between Terroir and Human Intervention
The existence of terroir (soil and microclimate unique to the land) is not denied. Differences in soil moisture content factually influence grape growth, and cultivation work content and intensity change accordingly. However, terroir characteristics appear more clearly in higher-classified vineyards because more careful cultivation is performed to match those characteristics. Human intervention "highlights" the land's individuality.
Furthermore, while vineyard differences were more pronounced in earlier eras when winemaking methods were not established, modern scientific techniques and good equipment enable anyone to produce wines of reasonable quality. Therefore, producer intervention has become a major factor creating "differences."
The Gap Between Consumer and Producer Perceptions
Consumers tend to automatically recognize wines as "good" based on label classifications. For example, German wine classifications (Kabinett, Spätlese, etc.) appear in textbooks as pyramids suggesting quality hierarchies, but they actually represent parallel classifications indicating grape must sugar levels at harvest, not quality rankings.
When introducing wines, producers don't say "which is better" but explain "these are the differences." Ultimately, judgments about wine being "good" or "bad" are left to consumer subjectivity.
How Poor Conditions May Widen Differences
In years with poor climate conditions, differences between classifications may become more pronounced. Historically, vineyards that were disease-resistant and could produce high-quality grapes with minimal intervention became highly classified, making these differences more apparent under adverse weather.
Additionally, higher-classified vineyards may experiment with "unconventional cultivation methods" such as organic farming to pursue more distinctive wines, which can actually worsen grape quality during bad weather. However, this also becomes a "difference" that consumers may accept as the wine's "character." Due to labor cost considerations, personnel are prioritized for higher-classified vineyards during poor conditions, making differences between classifications more likely to emerge.
Capital Strength and Scale Expansion
In modern wine production, capital strength exerts significant influence. Well-capitalized wineries can own many higher-classified vineyards and invest abundant resources to produce many "different wines" recognized as "better." Additionally, by efficiently machine-processing inexpensive vineyards for mass production, they can rotate funds and achieve further scale expansion.
Conclusion
The reality is that vineyard classifications derive from historical background and sales records, and may not directly connect to modern wine quality. However, wines from classified vineyards feel "different" because producers prioritize limited resources from cultivation through winemaking to maintain these wines' price points and wine list positioning, making efforts to create clear "differences." For consumers, whether these "differences" are perceived as "goodness" becomes the ultimate evaluation.
Your Trusted Partner in Winemaking
Are you looking to resolve day-to-day questions and uncertainties in viticulture or winemaking? Hoping to take your wine quality to the next level? We're here to help.
At Nagi Wines, we support every step of your winemaking process—from vine to barrel to bottle. Our seasoned experts provide on-site, hands-on guidance to enhance your knowledge, refine your technique, and elevate the overall quality of your wines.
If you're seeking professional support while keeping costs under control, don’t hesitate to get in touch. Let's craft excellence together.
